Going back, moving forward

I want to write about my six-day trip to Istanbul over the Easter break.

It wasn’t just a visit—it felt like a quiet collision of past and present. Going back with my husband and our son, I found myself moving through a city I know so well, yet seeing and feeling it differently. Same skyline, same chaos, same sea air… but this time, I felt like I was the one holding the map.

Staying in a hotel in my own hometown added a strange layer to the experience. No family home to return to, no familiar drawers or cups — just key cards and elevator music. Not stepping back into the familiar smells of my mother’s or grandmother’s home brought some sadness of course, but at the same time, it gave me a sense of freedom—like I could move through the city lightly, discovering it again as if for the first time, without nostalgia holding me back from making space for something new.

And maybe that space was exactly what I needed, because we were there for something big: signing a contract for my culinary memoir (still feels surreal to even say that). Somewhere between the Bosphorus and the traffic, I signed my name and realised one of my biggest dreams—the dream of sharing my story through the kitchen, of leaving these memories to my son Luca, of honouring the two most precious women in my life: my grandma and my mama.

When I stepped out of the publisher’s building, tucked into the back streets of the Old Town, the rain was pouring and somehow, without thinking too much about it, my feet carried me down towards the Spice Market, as if they already knew where I needed to go.

After a quick stop at Ali Muhiddin Hacıbekir Şekerlemecisi to buy some traditional Turkish hard candies – akide şekeri, known for their glossy texture and delicate flavors like rose, mint, and lemon – I invited myself for lunch at the Pandeli Restaurant inside the Spice Bazaar. This place has never been just a restaurant to me; it’s a ritual. My mom and I used to stop there every time we wandered through the Old Town. Climbing its narrow staircase again, lined with those same beautiful blue tiles, gave me goosebumps. It still holds the same quiet elegance, although part of me wished I could make the tourist crowd disappear—just for a moment—to bring back that old feeling: time slowing down enough for a simple, thoughtful meal in peace.

I sat at a table by myself, surrounded by tourists carefully studying the menu, while I already knew exactly what I wanted. For a brief second, I caught myself thinking my mom might walk in at any moment, pull up a chair, and comment on my order. She didn’t, of course. At least not physically.

When I finished, it was still pouring rain with no intention to stop, making all the taxis of the city disappear so I had to cross the Galata Bridge on foot. I got the feeling that the city had decided I should walk to take in the view of the fishermen lining the edges, seagulls diving into the water, and the Galata Tower standing above it all, watching over everything like it always has.

It was one of those moments where nothing extraordinary seems to be happening, and yet everything is—quietly, somewhere deep in the heart. An unplanned, almost therapeutic day that left me feeling whole and content.

And maybe it was that feeling that carried into the rest of the trip. Because it wasn’t only about signing a contract. I was also invited to cook and speak at the Culinary Arts Academy for a podcast recording. I made my mom’s spring pilav while talking about my family’s kitchen, and how my gluten-free journey has quietly reshaped both our lives and some of our traditional recipes. It was a casual, fun, and deeply fulfilling experience.

From there, the trip naturally unfolded into another layer of our everyday reality. Traveling with our son, who has celiac disease, and with no access to a kitchen, added its own rhythm. Some days, Istanbul felt incredibly easy—fresh fish, grilled meat, naturally gluten-free mezes everywhere. Other days… not so much.

One night at an ocakbaşı, we did everything right. Asked all the questions. Got all the reassurances. They said “don’t worry,” but somewhere between the smoke of the grill and the good intentions, gluten still found its way in. And just like that, the rest of the night shifted for us. Parenting a child with celiac means balancing care and acceptance—you can do everything right and still not control everything.

And yet, traveling with celiac can be frustrating at times, yes, but still beautiful. A few bumps on the road can’t and won’t stop us from continuing to travel, discover, and taste the world—as long as we live.

By the end of those six days, Istanbul didn’t feel like the same city I grew up in. But maybe that’s the point. Cities change. We change. And sometimes you meet your past self halfway—over a plate of chicken pilav, in the rain, on a bridge between who you were and who you’ve become.

And honestly, I think I can be proud of how far I’ve come.

Before I put the final dot here, here are a few celiac-safe addresses we discovered during this trip. Not all are fully gluten-free, but all of them had a very clear awareness and care around it:

Kolcuoğlu in Nişantaşı offers gluten-free options and a clear understanding of celiac needs, including dishes like lahmacun, pide, künefe, and many other traditional Turkish choices. They have a separate kitchen for people with celiac.
Günaydın Et is a well-known steakhouse in Istanbul, famous for high-quality meat. For gluten-free options, they generally have a good understanding of dietary needs, and many of their grilled meat dishes and mezes are naturally gluten-free (as long as sauces, marinades, and sides are checked carefully).
Saray Muhallebicisi is a classic Istanbul chain known for traditional Turkish comfort food and desserts. They generally have a good awareness of gluten-free needs, and several naturally safe options can be found. In particular, their döner kebap served over rice, their chicken pilav, their milky desserts like muhallebi and sütlaç are gluten-free choices.
Pandeli Restaurant is one of Istanbul’s most iconic historic restaurants, located above the Spice Bazaar. Known for its Ottoman-inspired cuisine and timeless blue-tiled interior, it offers a traditional dining experience. For gluten-free choices, the kitchen can guide you through naturally suitable dishes such as grilled meats, rice-based sides, and various mezes—though it’s always important to double-check preparation and sauces due to cross-contamination.
Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir Şekerlemecisi is one of Istanbul’s oldest and most iconic confectioners, famous for its traditional Turkish hard candies which are naturally gluten-free, as they are made primarily from sugar and flavorings. This is a nostalgic stop for me, as I used to go there with my grandmother and I still remember how much I loved their candies—especially the mint, sesame, and lemon flavours.
Mahkeme Lokantası is a discovery I only made on this trip, even though it has apparently been around for almost eight years. Before finding it, my go-to was always Karaköy Lokantası, but this one could easily take its place. They are both in the Karaköy area, close to the Istanbul Modern Museum (which is absolutely a must visit). At Mahkeme, you can enjoy classic Turkish home-style dishes in a very authentic, slightly nostalgic atmosphere—think slow-cooked stews, mezes, seasonal plates, and traditional desserts. It’s especially appreciated for its honest, “esnaf lokantası” style cooking with a modern touch, and a menu that changes depending on what’s freshly prepared that day. For gluten-free needs, many of their meat, fish and vegetable-based dishes can be suitable (like grilled items, stews, rice-based plates, mezes), but as with most traditional Turkish kitchens, it’s important to double-check preparation and cross-contamination with staff, who, by the way, were exceptionally attentive and friendly.
Guru Nişantaşı is a café located in Nişantaşı, just behind the American Hospital. It’s 100% gluten-free where you can find protein bowls, salads, sandwiches, cakes and other bakery products. And their coffee cake is absolutely worth mentioning—rich, comforting, and honestly to die for.
Fırın Anatolia is a cozy bakery in Nişantaşı with other branches across Istanbul. They offer a selection of thoughtfully prepared gluten-free options, and the staff is knowledgeable and accommodating. While not an exclusively gluten-free bakery, there is a clear awareness of gluten-free preparation, and some items can be enjoyed safely.
Chacha Fish Restaurant is a seafood restaurant located right on the waterfront in Beylerbeyi, on the Asian side of Istanbul, with beautiful views of the Bosphorus and passing boats. Friends took us here during the trip, and we truly enjoyed it – especially the setting right on the water. For gluten-free needs, many of their grilled fish, seafood, and mezes are suitable, as long as sauces and preparation are carefully checked with the staff, who were very attentive.
Still, my all-time favourite remains Kıyı Restaurant in Tarabya—a place I always go back to for its timeless quality and excellent seafood.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu is one of Istanbul’s most iconic baklava houses, known for its long-standing tradition of Turkish desserts. While most of their classic baklava is made with wheat-based phyllo and therefore not gluten-free, they also have awareness around dietary needs. As part of their “Çölbak” project, they offer a gluten-free baklava alternative designed for those who avoid gluten, allowing guests with celiac to still enjoy a version of this traditional experience.
Bayramoğlu Döner is a well-known spot in Kavacık, on the Asian side of Istanbul, famous for its classic Turkish döner served in a simple, no-fuss setting. The plain döner meat served over rice is naturally gluten-free as well as the salad and the French fries. But, as always, it’s important to confirm with the staff, who are very familiar with dietary requests due to the restaurant’s high volume and local popularity. And I am telling you—this is one of the BEST döner you can eat in the entire city!